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cheapbag214s
Posted: Mon 17:15, 19 Aug 2013
Post subject: beware the uniform-spun5
beware the uniform,
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Shortly after dawn eventually on my first visit to Russia,
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, a land where guidebooks advise foreigners to prevent just about anyone in uniform, I elbowed my way out of the cramped subway car in Moscow onto a marble platform full of indecipherable Cyrillic signs.
Lost, sleepy, and trying to find my way beneath fluorescent-lighted chandeliers and timeworn frescoes of muscle-bound workers, I pushed through the throng of rush-hour commuters and realized that all of the hammers and sickles,
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, red stars along with other relics of communism weren't the only real holdovers in the Soviet era.
Looking at me somewhat ominously would be a large man wearing a bright blue beret, combat boots, and a blue-striped tank top. He appeared as if a guy familiar with the skill of killing. I tried to prevent his gaze as he hoisted a virtually finished beer and shouted during my direction,
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, "Slava,
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, VDV! Slava,
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, VDV!" gibberish that anyway sounded menacing.
After nearly a week in Russia,
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, however, it no more seemed odd to locate someone drinking in public,
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, haranguing passersby with drunken songs and incomprehensible epithets. Already I had been accustomed to curious sights throughout the fading grandeur of Moscow's metro system, which some 9 million people use every single day. For instance, I had seen a man,
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, in full view of just about everyone within the subway car, plant his hand down a ladies shirt while another lost his lunch as the train lurched to some halt.
Things i couldn't know that morning hours was that I would spend the day attempting to stay away from most of the drunken man's comrades,
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, thousands of beret-wearing veterans who wrought a measure of chaos at nearly every corner of the capital,
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, from metro stations and markets to parks and Red Square.
I'd learn later that this disjointed legion of huge men -- many of whom were educated to kill -- were celebrating a peculiar holiday here called Paratroopers Day,
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, which appeared like a mixture of St. Patrick's Day and Veterans Day, with increased alcohol and much more belligerence. counterparts and rise from what seems like miles below ground. I emerged right into a cold drizzle near the massive,
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, neo-Gothic Foreign Ministry Building, which could pass for the Legion of Doom, and trudged through the sodden streets,
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, passing everything from a McDonald's to vendors hawking trinkets bearing likenesses of Lenin and Marx.
Watermelons and gewgaws
As morning blurred into afternoon, I wandered the town, from the ornate metro stations to a gritty market where Asian-featured men in the former Soviet republics within the Caucasus sold imitation Nike sneakers,
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, oversized watermelons,
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, and all kinds of gewgaws. I rubbed elbows with grimacing babushkas and beautiful ladies who flaunted their long hair,
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, short-skirts and stiletto heels,
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, a perilous choice on cobblestoned streets. I ate pelmeni (Russian dumplings), borscht,
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, stuffed cabbage and black bread,
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, though sushi,
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, pizza and lots of gourmet imports were widely available.
I visited that old Lubyanka prison,
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, where Stalin jailed a large number of dissidents,
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, potential counterrevolutionaries, and innocent victims within the 1930s. The imperious building is now headquarters of the Federal Security Service,
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, successor to the KGB. When a guard gestured for me to stop snapping pictures of the weathered,
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, gray stones and several surveillance cameras,
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, I crossed the street and located a tiny park,
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, home to the relatively invisible Memorial to the Victims of Totalitarianism,
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, an area of garden with nothing more than a commemorative rock from the labor camp in which the Soviets worked untold millions, or millions,
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, to death.
A block away, I stumbled upon Moscow's premier science museum, which highlights the nation's contributions to from chemistry to rocketry. There were some of the world's first spacesuits,
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, an exhibit about how exactly Dmitri Mendeleev developed the periodic table along with a type of the Soviet Union's first atomic bomb.
Afterward,
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, when i passed the scaffold-covered Bolshoi Theatre and neared the red brick gates of the Kremlin,
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, I began to realize something was different about this day from my previous days in Russia. Nearly everywhere I turned, I saw the men within the blue berets and striped shirts,
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, or telnyashka,
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, a signature area of the uniform of Russia's navy and special forces.
I prodded a friend, an expatriate living in Russia, to ask the police that which was happening. She was reluctant, because of the advice about not approaching those wearing uniforms. space shuttle, the paratroopers were everywhere.
These were strumming guitars,
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, and videotaping one another dancing and wrestling. Some disrobed for their tattoos and splashed through the park's fountains.
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