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Searching for Mumbai Shanghai,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]
In November, I visited China New York and Mumbai envy.
And I relieved I don live in it, despite the six years I spent, until last March,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], in the Mumbai of Shanghai dreams.
I was counting down to my first visit to Olympian Beijing competitor, the city of skyscrapers that rose science fiction style on a muddy fishing village in the Middle Kingdom.
So I was puzzled when Indians in Beijing didn share my excitement. and crowded like Mumbai…take care of your purse,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], said a young Indian professional. day is enough to see Shanghai, said an older businessman.
I booked my air tickets at a travel agency where the Chinese staff had not heard of the world fastest magnetic levitation train that shoots between Pudong airport and the city fringes in less than eight minutes. Finally in Shanghai,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], we did not land at the futuristic Pudong airport,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but its poor cousin Hongqiao,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], because it was near our 60-storey hotel.
Hongqiao makes Mumbai renovated Santacruz airport look good. Outside,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], we saw a fleet of ageing and grimy taxis…a surprise after the capital spotless fleet, whose drivers suffered pre-Olympics fines if inspectors found even a strand of hair on the seats.
As we drove slowly into congested Shanghai draped in thick grey haze,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], my father declared that he wanted to return to Beijing the next day.
From my 56th floor hotel room,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], I looked down on China largest city and saw a claustrophobic clutter of rooftops brushing each other with none of the green spaces that dot even business neighbourhoods in Beijing. Is this really what Mumbai wants to look like, I wondered.
There was no sign of the sky during our three-day stay,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], so we didn go atop China latest tallest building, a bottle-opener-shaped 101-storey skyscraper that rarely peeked out of the haze.
Just before the Olympics,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Beijing beggars were ordered out and pirated DVD sellers and hawkers of counterfeit designer goods briefly scurried underground. It seemed like they all fled to Shanghai.
Vuitton bag, Rolex watch, yelled locals clutching designer brochures on the streets,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], where the uneven and narrow footpaths took getting used to after walking Beijing wide new pavements.
money, chanted children, men and women of all ages begging everywhere, even by the Bund overlooking the skyscrapers of Pudong district. The Bund famed skyline was fogged out and my mother slipped on the fruit peels littering the walk.
Whenever a police patrol approached,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], hawkers on the Bund skated away on wheels attached to sneakers. They pretended to hide in full view of the police,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], who pretended not to notice.
I left Shanghai thinking that for the latest in urban planning,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the policy-makers at Mantralaya in Mumbai could look at Beijing instead. Shanghai has China tallest buildings,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], deep underwater tunnels,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], busiest port and expensive night-out options. But Beijing packs 17 million people with parks around every corner, wide tree-lined boulevards for the 1,000 new cars hitting the roads every day,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], indoor markets instead of pavement sellers,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and constant additions to city-life,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], like an all-glass Village of restaurants and shops.
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