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How you can be considered a modern gentleman
During the last 10 years approximately though,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], it's undergone an unofficial modernisation programme, which has seen its output expand into titles including Manners for males, Etiquette for Girls and Thoroughly Modern Motoring Manners.
Learn more about
The best is one that I've only just come across, called Guide for that Modern Gentleman. Instead of coming across as dry and prescriptive,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], it has a marvellously light touch,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and comes with regular injections of trivia humour.
Within the two days that I've had my copy I've learned 1) that it's okay for a man to possess the Anthology album by Diana Ross and the Supremes; 2) how to differentiate a hybrid bike from the touring bike, from a track bike, from the road bike etc; 3) that there's an extant law which states that taxis in the City of London aren't allowed to carry rabid dogs or corpses and; 4) the right way to consume sushi (and never to point with chopsticks). They are all part of what must be done to become a modern gentleman.
Fun stuff aside, the guide also contains a lot of truly useful information, which can serve as the backbone to this book. A piece on suit and shirt details for instance, comes complete with invaluable advice whether you're buying bespoke or off-the-peg.
Here's an excerpt that details the anatomy of the shirt and what to look for when you are buying one (make reference to the gallery above for the accompanying illustration).
THE YOKES:
the entire shirt hangs from here. Whether it doesn't fit,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], then the shirt won't fit.
ARMHOLES:
not so high regarding hit the front and also the back of the arm.
SLEEVES:
these should be of sufficient length to show enough cuff at the end of the suit jacket. They must be tight enough to look great, but loose enough to permit plenty of movement. Wear the jacket you will be wearing together with your shirt whenever you buy.
FRONT:
if you don't possess a large stomach,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the leading ought to be close-fitting and flat, as the fullness of a shirt should be contained in the back. A bigger waistband may mean more room is required in front of the shirt.
CUFF:
generally, the cuff should end four and half inches from your thumb. Cuff linings can add flair and structure. Double cuffs fit cufflinks and can be altered to support any kind of cufflink from square to round, mitred to bar. Bring the cufflink you intend to wear together with your shirt if you have it fitted.
TAILS:
a shirt should be long enough to ensure that it never pops out of the waistband throughout the day. Take advice out of your tailor about the appropriate length.
COLLAR:
collar shape depends on shape of face,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], shoulder slope, type of jacket and size of tie-knot. A narrow tie will suit a more traditional collar, while anybody who insists on a footballers' tie knots will require a large,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], cut-away collar. When the style of tie you wear changes, your tailor can alter your shirt's collar to support this. To check whether your collar fits, you ought to be able to fit three fingers under it at the side of the neck. Always wear a collar stay,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], too, if you don't are wearing a button-down shirt.
POCKETS:
pockets spoil the line of the shirt and if you don't require them for a specific reason - as somewhere to transport your charge cards or glasses for instance - stay away from them. Should you should have pockets,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], then have one on each side to balance the shirt. It's not going to look great with a suit but works more casually.
BACK:
shoulder pleats allows fullness in the back and permit free movement. For any slim-fit shirt, a centre pleat is needed. A baggy shirt won't do your profile any favours.
BUTTONS:
four-hole buttons are generally sewn on with a machine and, therefore, decrease the bespoke impact of the shirt. Some tailors will sew three-hole or six-hole buttons- and use brightly coloured thread-to highlight the shirt's bespoke qualities. Buttons can be hidden by a fly-front,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], if necessary, although the shirt may look oddly bare.
WATCHES:
a made-to-measure shirt can be styled to permit for slim, medium-sized and large watches. Wear the watch you want to wear together with your shirt at the fitting.
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